So, like I mentioned before, I bought a $700 blown up Miata. In the last week, I've procured a junkyard engine for around $1k, and I've been doing all the stuff that would be annoying with the engine in. So far I've done timing belt and tensioners, water pump, front main seal, and EGR block off plate. The rest of this week I'll do clutch and flywheel, rear main seal, coolant reroute and hopefully drop the motor in next Saturday. In an attempt to suck less at video, I've been doing some videos on the Miata build for my Youtube channel. Here's a video of my progress so far.
So, like I said in my previous post, I’m not screwing around this time. I’m getting right down to work, so I pulled the NB in today to get started on pulling the motor. This thing is M I N T Y, I totally lucked out on such a clean, well maintained car. Here’s our starting point, one blown up NB. Poor 1.8.
Looks pretty damn good right? Check out the inside of this air box:
It looks brand fucking new! Maybe they replaced it recently trying to diagnose the problem, but if so they suck, because this shouldn’t be too terribly difficult to diagnose:
That’s cylinder number three, and I’m guessing that’s some part of a valve, but whatever the fuck it is, it’s not supposed to be chillin on top of the piston. Anyway. The car is super clean, and I’m actually being super careful taking it apart, preserving all the clips and shit. I’m trying to keep it nice bros. I did crack the radiator, but it was the 20 year old original, and judging by the pint or two of coolant in it and the coolant in cylinder number 3, it got HOT, so I’m not going to lose my sleep over it. As soon as I get done posting this I’m going to try and find me a good aluminum radiator, because this won’t be going back in.
It took a comically long time for me to find all of the bolts on this splash shield, primarily because none of my hoopties have ever had this by the time I got them 😂
And this is where I stopped today, it was getting late and I had actual work stuff to do. Exhaust side is totally taken apart. The manifold is unbolted, just have to disconnect at the cat and pull it off. The wiring harness is pulled back out of the way, the cooling system is drained and removed. I basically need to pull the fuel lines, the bellhousing bolts, and the motor mount and I should be able to drop it right out.
Not two bad for two hours with a heat index of 105 while also dealing with normal work stuff. I feel like I burned a million calories, maybe “Car Repair Yoga” should be my new workout routine. Here’s a picture I took for Daisy to demonstrate just how hot it was outside.
Anyway, Tuesday I should be able to push it over to the lift and do the last few things and snatch the engine out of it. My maintenance stuff for the new motor is coming from RockAuto.com on Monday, my clutch happy meal is coming from Flyin Miata on Wednesday. My new motor will be in from a junkyard on Tuesday. Starting to come together pretty quick, I’m gonna stay on top of it and get this car built. I’ll update next week with an empty engine bay.
Now to decide on a turbo kit. I'm leaning toward the FM stage 1 but at the same time, the MKTurbo kit seems like a really strong value considering it includes a Megasquirt EFI. Have a little bit of time to decide while I put a motor in and sell my NC...anyone wanna buy a PRHT Miata?
So, I picked up a new daily driver (A wrecked accord I bought at copart, check out my youtube channel for the build), and since having LED headlights in my Fit, I now hate driving anything without them. I decided to get a little crazy at SuperBrightLEDS and upgraded every single light on the front of the car. Low beams, high beams, and fog lights. Here's how it looks with the stock halogens.
Pulling the headlights out requires taking the bumper cover off, but its honestly not that difficult on the Accord. One screw inside each wheel well and a bunch of pop in fasteners.
The headlights are plug and play, no wiring required. You do need to make sure they're lined up right, the "filaments" need to be oriented horizontally, or the beam pattern will not be correct.
From there it's basically just popping the lights back in and plugging everything up. Make sure you test EVERY light before you put the entire bumper back on. The plugs will go on either way, there is no "upside down" in terms of them physically fitting, but they will only work in one orientation. If you put your bumper cover back on and realize half the lights don't work, you will likely be pretty pissed at yourself and feel like a total idiot for not checking first. Ask me how I know.
Anyway, once your dumbass takes the bumper back off and plugs them in correctly, they will look like this:
MUCH brighter, but still good clean cut off so you don't blind people all the time. Everything works 100%, no "bulb out" lights or anything like that. Overall, super happy with them, and will likely continue to put SuperBrightLEDs in every car I buy until I'm unpoor enough to afford something with factory LED lights. Go check them out.
I am a bit of a flashlight nerd, and having any light be less than insanely bright has now become one of my pet peeves. The headlights on my 08 Fit Sport beater were honestly not terrible, but with the seasons changing and me soon to be leaving work at night, i felt it was time for an upgrade.
I immediately went to SuperBrightLEDs, because I’ve ordered tons of stuff from there and they have top notch lights, fast shipping, and good customer service. Every car I’ve owned in the last few years has gotten all the interior lights replaced with LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs. They draw way less power and are far brighter. Anyway, I put in my car info and it gives me the suggestion to use this H4 fanless kit that’s plug and play. I went ahead and ordered them for something right at $75 shipped. They showed up a couple of days later and I finally got a chance to install them.
They are pretty damn much plug and play. I had to trim the rubber ring that covers the headlight bulb a bit to clear the heat sink, and because someone at Honda is an asshole I actually put it on the lift and pulled the front wheels off to install them since you have to pull out the fender liner, but that would apply to even replacing a stock bulb. The difference was immediately evident.
Here are the stock headlights:
Here is the LED on the driver side with a stock bulb on the passenger side:
And finally, this is LED on both sides. You can really see the difference if you look at them against the color temperature of the stock fog lights.
It’s still daylight, so it’s super hard to say how well they will do at night, but judging based on how much brighter they look in the shop, they’re going to be awesome. Also, since they’re made to go in halogen reflectors, the beam pattern actually looks correct and doesn’t scatter light everywhere. It looks exactly like the stock headlights, just brighter and whiter. So far, I love it.